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Posted by Chris K. on May 09, 19102 at 21:10:42:

In Reply to: Post-Stain Divots and Color Variances posted by Richard on May 09, 19102 at 16:39:46:

: We'd gotten our house's floors stained by a company that had only done new construction sites. When they ripped up the carpeting and the tack strips, they left divots around the border. Other than putting molding around the edges of the floor, is there anything that can be done? The divots extend about 2 inches around the edges and are up to an inch deep.

: Secondly, a couple of the rooms came out terribly: large patches that didn't take stain and others that just left discolored cement. Any way to salvage this?

:One option might be to grind sealer off 2" or more around walls.
set filament or line tape 2" or more around room.
fill divits and install overlay at perimeter walls only.
Remove tape and acid stain in accent color.
Chris K. 

Posted by Tad on May 08, 19102 at 01:07:02:

In Reply to: Re: Old Concrete Patio Staining? posted by Chris K. on May 07, 19102 at 21:29:11:

: : Our patio is 6 yrs old. and the finish on it is somewhat smooth and slippery when wet. Also is is unevenly discolored and unattractive. We were wondering if we could use the scoring tape as a kind of grout lines and then stain instead of scoring. would that work? Also is the stain sprayed on? Any information would be greatly appreciated. We live in South East Pennsylvania. Where could we purchase these kinds pf materials? Thanks in advance. Mimi

: : Mimi,
: The stain will leak under the tape and you will not get a nice clean grout line. Stain can be brushed or sprayed. Stain does not need grout lines, and the unevenness might look good when stained. What look are you trying to achieve?

: Chris K.
 

MIMI
sounds like my grand mothers name.
anyway im me and Ill tell you a trick

Tad

Posted by Tad on May 08, 19102 at 01:21:24:

In Reply to: best way to remove sealers posted by keith on May 05, 19102 at 23:26:09:

: whats the best way to remove waterbased acrylic?
: Its applied over stain. the problem is that parts of the floor like paint instead of stain. I used scofeild padre brown. any help would be greatly appreciated. something new everyday,

KS-3
witha black pad if its water based pour the stuff on the floor and go to work .....corners are gonna be a bit** but it only water based get on your hand and knees and work with a poly brush or a still brush like you use on the grill 
OMYO

Tad

Posted by John Plato on May 05, 19102 at 13:05:25:

In Reply to: cleaning sheet rock mud and paint from surface to be stained posted by Bryan on May 05, 19102 at 10:18:44:

: What is the best method of cleaning slab up for staining? I would say 40% of the surface has some wood stain,sheetrock mud and paint on it. Is there a commercial sander or grinder availabe at a rent-all? Is there any type of solvent I can put on it without sanding? Thanks in advance.

Bryan : Getting the mud up is the easy part. For mud that was splattered, use a putty knife, and pop off the clumps, keep a waste basket or small pail handy for the debris. Paint is the next worse culprit, you'll have to put that putty knife back in to motion, scraping(not gouging deeply) the drips/splatters of paint off the surface. Then comes the toughie, wood stain. If it soaked in very much, which a stain is supposed to do, then you'll probably have to sand it out with a rotary sander found at a rental dept. and get some black pads. If its in an confined area such as a room, use some water on the floor with some TSP solution applied on the surface as you sand, keeping it controlled from baseboards, doors or anything else not mean't to be impacted by the sander & cleaning solution. When you know that you covered every square inch at least twice, roll the sander out of the area, and start cleaning up the sanded area with a garden hose with a small stream(controllable) and wet/dry vac or jantitorial style mop bucket, and mop up that stuff. Either way, keep cleaning until the water comes out clear after extensive mopping. It also helps to have another person running the water and dumping the vac or mop bucket. Allow it to dry thoroughly, and make sure there is no foot traffic on it while drying. If there is still is a faint shadow of the stain left, but only a faint shadow, you can probably count on it staying that way, and acid staining will do its thing anyway, throwing the mottled look throughout the area, giving character that it does. Sometimes there are imperfections on the surface that you can't just get around, without more extensive corrections(overlays;etc) Thats life!
>>John<< 

Posted by rashell on May 03, 19102 at 10:41:34:

In Reply to: multi-color acid staining: getting closer! posted by Jan on May 03, 19102 at 09:36:39:

: Thanks John and Rashell,
: John,I went to the site and,yes, although this job color is way too intense for me, I think it's what I want to do. The picture to the left with the small squares in large diamonds is more what I had in mind, a soft mottling. What do you suggest? Rashell, if I'm understanding what you did, it seems that you may have something like color spots, rather than mottled together, but it helps me to know that you did it all at the same time. Could you explain further? Thanks, guys! Jan

Well, yes and no. My floor looks pretty much like those on the cincrete website "A" with the exception of the one you want. You get a little mottled effect and color spots. 

In my experience (which is not a lot compared to some of these guys, The Prof's). That picture looks as though they only used one color for the main area and another for the squares. You can achieve that look with two or three coats. I have used different colors together a lot and have always gotten darker spots in areas. There are so many variables. 
Once, I was using a brown stain on my new concrete and the first coat was green and the second coat the brown came out but only in spots.
This is what I recommend:
1. make samples using the colors you want 

Posted by Chris K. on April 30, 19102 at 19:36:26:

In Reply to: Acid Staining a dyed green patio posted by Mark on April 30, 19102 at 15:10:39:

: My home was built in 1949 and has the original dyed green patio with a smooth finish. I want to know if I can use acid finishes to achieve a new color , something toward a darker color , more natural colors? Anyone know? Thanks! 

Mark,
Yes,you can acid stain dyed green concrete if it has not been sealed or painted (if green was added to wet concrete at time of pour).
Chris K. 

Posted by Tad on April 28, 19102 at 01:37:32:

In Reply to: Re: Red chalk and lead pencil marks on slabs posted by Kelley on April 27, 19102 at 23:26:54:

: : The builder on the job I am going to stain disregarded the instructions not to use red chalk and lead pencil marks on the slab. Any suggestions to get it off, the job is now in jeapordy because of the marks. The builder has told the customer that he does not want them to stain it because he will have to protect it during building. 

: --And I thought the customer ran the show...

: Kelley

A course pad with some/alot sunnyside will take some off . also a stiff metal brush with acid.........very diluted 1/10 will take it up
but be very careful not to ecth.
good luck 

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